Monday, October 17, 2016

The Expanding Wine Lists At Los Angeles LAX Airport


In the winter of 1942 a group of Americans landed via seaplane at Foynes airfield in western Ireland. Miserably cold when they entered the terminal (which was a local hotel) they were served a special concoction that chef Joe Sheridan thought might warm them up. It included coffee, sugar, whipped cream and whiskey. When asked the name of this drink he invented for them, Sheridan replied, “Irish Coffee.” The association of airports with alcohol has only expanded since then.

Five years later and ten miles away, the first ever duty-free store in an airport opened in Ireland’s Shannon Airport. The small kiosk sold souvenirs. The concept caught on. In the 1960's two Americans founded duty free stores in Hong Kong and then in the U.S. With time, airports transformed from transit hubs to shopping malls. As the ‘airport experience’ transformed from inconvenience to one of consumer opportunity, the range of restaurants, as well as bars and bar types, also grew.

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) is the seventh busiest airport in the world and third busiest in the U.S. The nine terminals serving 75 million passengers a year include 95 food outlets—enough for the Los Angeles Eater publication to issue its annual ‘Where to Eat at LAX‘ report.

Inside LAX, the recently expanded, $1.7 billion Tom Bradley International Terminal (TBIT) includes 27 eateries (seven are located before security). The 150,000 square-foot, (14,000 square-meter) Great Hall as well as Northern and Southern concourses include restaurants associated with signature chefs, including Michael Voltaggio and Suzanne Goin.

Across from the Gucci, Burberry and Herm├Ęs stores, past massive windows facing KLM wide-bodies, and under the sound of final boarding calls for Madrid or Munich, you can choose from several locations for an excellent glass of wine. For a pre-flight buzz try wheeling your travel bag to Vino Volo—a concept bar replicated at 27 other U.S. locations. The LAX Vino Volo is listed as one of ‘best airport bars in the world‘ (while neighboring ink.sack restaurant is on the list of ‘best airport restaurants in the world.’)

Vino Volo is decorated with wine barrels and hefty images of food plates and wine glasses. The music directed downward from above helps offset the sound of airport banter. Those working here take their business seriously. The tasty pizzeta Caprino with goat cheese, Parmigiano, olives and arugula I ordered was delivered rapidly on a cutting board. From the wine list I ordered a ‘California Kings’ flight of three red wines—including a delicious Zinfandel from Sean Minor Wines, a Merlot from Bernal Estates and a Cabernet Sauvignon from Aurelian. All three well balanced reds were focused on the aroma and taste of fruit more than tannin. Drinking here is also an education. All of the eight wine flights available are served on cards with tasting notes, as well as graphs that indicate the wine’s weight and texture (‘rich, bright, light or brooding’).

At the bar, Alfred Rosanes served a Tempranillo to a seated couple and mentioned its pungent aromas of rosemary and thyme before explaining how the popularity of wines in the terminal varies by season. “During summer we serve a lot of white and bubbles. That’s changing now.”